Salient Soft

I needed to do a partial sync of my legacy iPod classic as my total library is now over 80GB, the size of its internal hard drive. I have never had to do this before, and have only ever done full syncs.

When trying to sync to add some newly added music in the library, it gave up due to lack of space. I tried various ways to just copy albums over but could not find a way to copy over manually or do a partial sync. Opening the iPod in the left column menus did show a breakdown including music, but I could not drag and drop albums or songs to this, even though it is what you normally do to add manually to playlists.

In the end I found the answer. Right under the top text menu bar is a bar that normally shows just “music” on it. However, when the iPod is connected to iTunes, it shows just to the right of the “music” option, as a little iPod icon.

Clicking this shows a whole new view of the iPod device, including a different set of left column menu options for the device – fundamentally different options compared to just clicking the iPod under devices in the left hand column when in the “normal” music mode.

At the top of the left column options is a Settings group, and for example clicking on Music under this group gives a new screen which allows either full sync of all the music, or selcted syncing, via the radio group near the top. Note that there is a tickbox at the top labelled “Sync music xxxx songs” – unticking this removes all the music from being synced.

When you click on the radio button for “Selected playlists, artists, albums and genres” rather than “Entire music library”, you get the ability to filter/select on numerous choices per the radio option – you can filter on a combination of playlists, artists, albums and genres, giving the ability to sync down to the album level.

You can also do similar partial syncs which include Movies/Audiobooks etc. by clicking these under the left column settings menu and filtering these (I mostly did not have any). You do the required selections for all these categories first if you have more to do than just music – the bottom bar with its sync button on the right remains for all the categories under settings – just the filtering options change depending on the category selected.

Having made the selections for all the categories, you then click Sync at the bottom right, and this does a complete sync of the device according to what you have selected.

Once done and synced, clicking the left arrow at the top left of the bar which earlier had the “Music” option under the top menu bar closes this new device view and returns to the original iTunes music view. Crucially, when you do this, the “Music” option again appears, and the iPod icon again appears just to the right of it. Note that for some reason, unexpectedly, the right arrow just to the left of the “Music” option does not take you to this new iPod device view – you have to click the iPod icon directly rather than right arrow.

All perhaps a bit hidden and quirky in places, but I was very pleased to be able to selectively sync to the iPod as I wished.

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I have just been notified by ZEN of the change to SOGEA in 30 days time.

Having looked into this, here are the main points:

1/ The switchover is transparent from an internet viewpoint. The internet should continue working with no change to the master socket/connection, and the FritzBox 7530 should not need any reconfiguration.

2/ I can use the RJ11 phone connector on the FritzBox as an analog phone connection to the existing BT 4600 base station by replacing the existing analogue phone cable with an RJ11 – RJ11 cable (I have already ordered one of these).

3/ Whilst the Fritz 7530 does support DECT, it appears that BT4600 handsets cannot connect to the Fritz 7530 wirelessly as a base station. This is discussed here, and appears to be due to the lack of DECT-GAP support in the BT 4600:

4/ Going forward, I would like to dump the BT4600s as they are becoming faulty/batteries failing etc. Ideally I would like some kind of local VOIP based solution as this would allow phone handsets to work anywhere we have wifi, particularly in the garden office. Otherwise, the DECT wireless network needs to cover down to the garden office, which would still be a challange, and seems unnecessary. We already have good Wifi coverage in the house and garden so it seems pointless to duplicate it for no reason. However, I have yet to find a good solution to all this.

5/ There are plenty of good DECT phones still available, per the Which? reviews here:
They even recommend the BT 4600 still, but the reviews don’t seem to mention DECT-GAP.
However, as above, I am reluctant to dive down the DECT route again as we already have good wifi coverage.

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We had a power cut recently and as a result, the Procurve 1810 switch in my garden office stopped working. After investigating, I discovered the PSU was faulty, likely blown by a voltage glitch during the power cut/restoration (it was also pretty old having been purchased in 2009). I had a spare PSU and a spare switch, but wanted to have a replacement on hand in case another one blew. I dismantled the old PSU to see if it had an internal blown fuse that I could replace. It used a very non standard screw to hold the case together, a bit like a torx but with a centre spigot. I managed to undo it with a torx, but even then the case was very hard to prise open – they definitely did not want you to dismantle it! Once I had it apart there was no fuse so I declared it completely dead.

The issue was that as the kit is proprietary HP, it uses a completely non standard DC connector on the switch that I could not find a PSU for readily anywhere. As the switch is old, there were a few places offering compatible PSUs, but I could not be certain that they had the correct DC connector. The frustrating thing was that the PSU requirement was a standard one, 12v 1.25A, which was available cheaply in many places with a standard 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC connector, and I had a spare one of these. Whilst I also had a PSU with an adapter on the end and a choice of DC connectors especially for this kind of situation, none of the choices I had matched the Procurve PSU connector.

I had a couple of the 5.5 x 2.1 soldered cable mounting female sockets so elected to chop the DC cable off the old supply and make my own adapter. I left plenty of cable length so I could easily chop the end off and redo it if the adapter went  wrong in future. Some care was needed soldering the cable socket – I used heat shrink sleeving over the centre pin joint, as the outer soldered joint was very close. I also used some larger heat shrink over the whole thing. In retrospect, I wondered if I could have added another piece of heat shrink over the outer soldered joint as well, having squeezed the end crimp solely over the outer cable run, not both. However, I think I was borderline tight as it was re getting the plastic cover on, and all the heat shrink was fine. In future I might consider just heat shrinking both connections separately and not using an outer one at all, but the tricky balance is that there is no overall cable clamp and I liked the idea of an overall heat shrink.

The existing soldered cable sockets I originally obtained from Maplin are available on Amazon here. You can also buy pre wired sockets with a length of cable (which would need an inline cable-cable-joint) but the only ones I could find were panel mount sockets rather than cable mounted.

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This follows on from my previous post here.

I had to use the mobile router backup in anger for the first time last Friday. Unfortunately, as I had not used it since 2023, the remaining minutes, existing sim and phone number had expired, as I had forgotten to periodically refresh them. After around 6 months or 179 days your sim/account hibernates, as per here. You have another 90 days to reactivate it after which it dies completely.

I therefore had to obtain another sim. I ordered a free one from EE by phone, but as this was going to take a few days to arrive, I just went to the local EE shop and bought a sim with inclusive 25Gb data pack for £15.

To manage the sim online at any time (which is the most convenient way) you register a new account with My EE here. Once you have done this, you can register the new sim with My EE by logging into your new account and selecting ‘Link a product’ and giving the SIM’s phone number. Note that a confirming text will be send to the sim phone number with a code which you must enter online. The easiest way to do this is to use a mobile to connect to the 4GEE router’s own wifi, and then visit 192.168.1.1 and login using the password you used when setting up the 4GEE mobile router. From the admin pages for the router, you can select the Status page option, which then has an SMS inbox link. This will allow you to view the text and get the confirmation code to register the SIM online. You can then select Manage Products when you log in to My EE, and your sim will appear in the list.

Note that when adding more data for the sim there is a difference between an addon as mentioned in the previous post, and a new subscription pack. The addon prices seem to be significantly more than just allowing the subscription pack to renew. You can change to another subscription pack but you have to stop the first pack completely, which you can do via a text or by visiting My EE and managing your pack(s) here. I will need to stop my pack (i.e. stop the auto renewal) within 30 days to stop it trying to renew. I believe this will still allow the minutes to be used, but the usual timeouts will apply, i.e. the data expires in 30 days for the pack that I bought.

Note also that all EE payg from March 2023 is limited to 25Mb download – I must have just missed this last time which is why I got the faster rates. As that original SIM has now died my new sim is subject to the limit. This is not too bad as the speed is still perfectly acceptable for streaming etc. The maximum is not much faster than the previous speeds of up to 20Mb that I was getting with the mobile router in the house, but as I have already set up the EZCOO usb extender, it is still worth keeping as I am still getting the best speed I can especially if reception conditions are difficult.

Also I used backup switchover ‘in anger’ – generally seems good, takes a few minutes either way. However once or twice when I turned off the mobile router completely in the Fritz internet mobile menu, the DSL popped up instantly which looked suspicious – as if it was already working and back on but didn’t show it. It does however have to be on for 30 minutes continuously in order for the auto switch from backup to happen.
At the end of the day, it is easy to switch mobile completely on or off in the menu, so manually switching over at any time if desired is straight forward, but the auto switch was pretty good.

Note that when the mobile router is in use via the fritz box, the DSL connection appears completely off/dead even if the FTTC connection is all working. You also cannot do a DSL test with the Fritz Box when the mobile backup is active, and neither can you do a full end to end test from the ZEN portal.

Re Zen diagnosis, whilst Zen were quick to respond and helpful, their outage page still showed no outage at all for our area code even when we had experienced the outage for several days intermittently, so we did not discover what the actual problem was that OpenReach were fixing. Zen did point out that you can run your own diagnostic test from the portal login, by selecting diagnostics after logging in, and then selecting (in my case) the business fibre 2 product (i.e. fttc). You then get a popup with a diagnostic link which takes you to a diagnostic test page to run a test. You can also see the history of tests either you or zen engineers have done. In my case this went back to the previous failures in 2023, all of which were there.

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