Salient Soft

This follows on from my previous post here.

Addition of a USB extender

As before, the mobile router performed around 4 times faster in the wooden garden office than in the brick build house, so it made sense to locate the router there when in use. However, I still wanted to allow shared internet around the house and on wifi when using the backup, and doing this another way e.g. by trying to share the connection from a windows PC in the garden office was not straightforward, and prevented the features of the Fritz box like its wifi from being used. I therefore obtained an EZCOO 50m USB extender for this, to allow the mobile router to still be connected to the Fritz Box in the house, but located in the garden office. When initially connecting the EE router to my TV PC via the USB extender, I received errors like “The last USB device you connected to this computer has malfunctioned and windows doesn’t recognize it”. Initially This appeared to be cable length related, as if it was a data corruption issue, as it failed on a full run to garden office with generous 7m flex cable at garden end. The full run was likely around the 50m max that was quoted by the EZCOO usb extender. However, this can also be caused by usb driver related issues. I tried to shorten the run by using the shortest cables I could each side of the Cat6 SWA run to the garden office. After this tidying up and retrying, the EE mobile router connected ok.

Significantly, I also received this error when testing the connection with my S22 Ultra mobile, again over the extender. However, when switching to using an older IOCELL Netdisk backup disk via its USB2 connection, it connected fine, which would tend to point more to driver or usb compatibility issues. Crucially, the Netdisk was able to copy significantly sized files both ways successfully over the full distance, indicating that the USB extender was working fine. Also and importantly, connecting the mobile router via the extender to the Fritz Box worked fine – the fritz box did not complain and always connected, but as always generally takes several minutes to switch over correctly between the primary and backup provider.

I continued to try file copying tests over the EE router connected to the TV PC via the extender, and these were all successful including 2-3GB copies to and from a OneDrive share. One issue that muddied the waters a lot was Windows file system caching of data both under Windows and with OneDrive – this led me to think copying had been completed when it hadn’t, or when a cache had been used to avoid the copy. Once I eliminated these issues all the tests were fine.

After retesting again today I had no problems connecting or speed testing, including tests done with the mobile router connected to the Fritz Box. I have had an occasional issue where speed test upload test did not work at all. I think that this may be a general ee mobile contention issue and perhaps if the upload link is too slow, ookla speed test just doesn’t bother and gives up.

DNS Issues

During the last couple of days, DNS has not been an issue with Zen overrides set, or by leaving the provider defaults. DNS still seems like it might be an issue, so it may be necessary to try another free public override on the DNS. The top rated free public servers are generally Cloud, Google, and OpenDNS, and details of these may be found on TechRadar here or on Broadband Genie here.

Points re topup and sim expiry

The terminology and process on this was not entire clear initially:-

• Firstly you need to purchase more credit, using a credit card, via ee.co.uk/topup . This can be done from any internet connection, by entering the mobile router phone number twice to authenticate (you don’t need a password to do this). The number was not listed in the paperwork for the router so I wrote it down on the paperwork for convenience.
• After you top up, i.e. buy credit, you need to visit add-on.ee.co.uk/purchase to get additional data using the credit you just purchased. Note that the word ‘purchase’ in the url here is ambiguous as you have already made a purchase with a credit card – you are just cashing in your credit to buy data. Note that in order to do this stage, your PC must be directly connected to the mobile router, i.e. you cannot be connected via the fritz box, even when it is in backup mode with the mobile router active. You get a choice of sizes, and you must have purchased enough credit previously to cover the size you want.
• In addition, it appears that there is a 6 month sim expiry issue for the PAYG sim used in the mobile router, as per here. You need to not just use the mobile router but also spend money every 6 months (180 days) or the SIM expires and you also lose any credit you had. You can phone EE to recover an expired SIM as detailed here, but if after 273 days you have done nothing, the sim and number expire completely and you will need a new sim and number. Therefore I decided my best option if not needing the backup for extended periods is to use it around twice a year before the 180 days expires, and buy the minimum minutes package (which is £5 at the time of writing).

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We have had this issue a number of times, where the cover keyboard just won’t work, even after rebooting several times.

This appears to be a common problem which is griped about online, and the solutions are varied, not that clear/consistent, and do not always work. I even replaced the cover keyboard, which did fix the problem at the time, but I then later found that the original one still worked!

IMO this looks like some kind of underlying bios problem.

After trying a number of ideas which did not work, including removing the keyboard driver, and disabling/re-enabling the keyboard in the UEFI bios, I found that booting into the UEFI bios (hold +volume button whilst pressing on button), and then rebooting again, seemed to work.

This site here appeared to have some helpful ideas, including running the keyboard troubleshooter, which I had not seen previously. As the troubleshooter initially said that there were no problems (!), I had to run additional troubleshooters and then select keyboard, as per the post, for it to work. In my case, the troubleshooter ran fine, but the keyboard was already working, so I’ll have to wait until next time to see if this helps to solve the problem, should it occur again.

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I obtained an EE mobile router as backup for the occasions when my main FTTC internet goes down. The main internet went down recently for and extended period due to an OpenReach Fibre connection issue to the exchange.

EE have the best mobile data coverage for my area per the ofcom coverage site here.

Zen internet sent me an EE mobile router as backup during the above outage (I presume they knew that EE had the best coverage in my area).

I was able to readily plug the router into a PC and get mobile coverage.

However, doing this via my Fritzbox 7530 needed some tweaking. The fritzbox has mobile internet backup capability via a submenu on its internet menu. This allows enabling the mobile router (plugged in via its usb port) as a backup only when the main internet is down.

Initially when I tried this having unplugged the main DSL connection, the internet showed as up, but DNS translation did not work. I found that under the internet menu/Account Information/DNS Server settings, I had overridden the DNSV4  servers provided by the ISP with specific Zen ones. Once I returned this setting to “use DNSv4 servers assigned by the internet service provider (recommended)”, DNS then worked on the mobile connection. In addition, automatic failover to mobile worked correctly when I unplugged the DSL connection, although this did take a few minutes to stabilise and was not instant.

In practice, I planned not to leave the mobile router plugged in, but to connect when needed. However, the fact that it is capable of providing shared internet and wifi via the router to my whole network was a real plus.

I found that the EE mobile router performed particularly well from my garden office (which is of wooden construction). I obtained approx 50Mb down and 1 Mb up in this situation – the down link speed was actually better than my FTTC which is around 32Mb. However in the house via the Fritzbox 7530, this reduced to around 20Mb down, presumably due to the brick construction blocking the signal more than the wooden building did.

However, in both of these situations the mobile data rate was way better than I had previously obtained by tethering my Vodafone Mobile – in the latter case, the connection was very slow and intermittent – sometimes I could not get a connection at all, so it would have been no use as a backup for remote working. The EE mobile router was perfectly suited for use as a remote working backup, although I planned not to leave it plugged in permanently as a hot backup but to manually plug in when required, as it was not instant anyway, and in practice I may have to buy additional minutes from EE as they seem to expire if you don’t use them within a set period.

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I had issues with this – the method proposed everywhere online was to hold the volume up key down whilst booting from cold with the power button, but I could not make this work at all, and could not enter the bios/UEFI either.

In the end I used the method detailed here fff. Right click on start, pick settings, then Update and Security, then select Recovery. Then click Restart Now from under Advanced Startup.

This worked fine, and gave a number of options which I did not explore, but the one I used was boot from usb device which gave the option of booting from a flash drive, which worked fine.

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I needed a shortcut for this as my new keyboard did not have its own sleep key like the old one.

There are various shortcuts for this which are discussed here.

My favourite one in the end has been Windows+X, then U, then S all on the keyboard, as this does not need any mouse involvement and is quick.

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I have had a repeated issue on windows 11 where my usb mouse appears to do multiple single clicks for one click, including an apparent extra click triggered by the mouse button release.

I tried a number of tricks with the settings, and also changed to another older usb mouse and replaced the original ageing mouse, but the issue persisted. I also wondered about USB port/hardware issues, and tried swapping ports several times, but to no avail.

I also tried updating the HID compliant mouse driver and the usb drivers, but in every case I was told that I was already on the latest version. In the end, I followed some online advice and removed all the HID compliant mouse drivers (as I was trying 2 mice to compare the issue). I then had to use the keyboard to navigate to a restart.

The restart reinstalled the latest mouse driver, and this completely fixed the problem. I am not sure if the issue was due to a corrupted mouse driver or corruption in its configuration/the registry somewhere, but either way, this resolved the problem perfectly.

Mouse issues like this, including possible causes and solutions, are discussed online here and also here.

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I am running 2 x CAT6 SWA cables to a garden office, along with a 6mm SWA cable for mains power.

I checked widely online about the wisdom of going with CAT6 SWA UTP vs FTP or S/FTP, and opinions as to how well this will all work vary widely – it was very hard to get a clear consensus on performance, particularly re the issue of how close you can run the CAT6 cable to a mains cable without compromising performance, although a number of posts cited not having any problems in practice. I had already opted for SWA UTP for simplicity, having previously reckoned that CAT5e might even be enough. The plan was to put a gigabit switch at each end, which should give far more performance than actually needed – The need to shovel large amounts of data between the house and the garden office would be minimal – possibly occasional copies to/from the TV pc, and some RDP use from the house to an office PC. The main need is to facilitate connection to the internet, which is a moderate speed FTTC connection to Zen Internet, typically giving about 30Mb/s down and 6-7Mb/s up, after significant effort by Zen and OpenReach to solve some line/connection problems. Slower internet is the price for living in a quiet rural area!

Having already obtained the cable, I was reluctant to switch and also have the additional size and larger bend radius of S/FTP, plus the additional complexity of the correct earthing and screened keystones etc.. I planned to just ask the installer to try to maximise the distance between the network and mains runs of cable, but was concerned enough at a late stage to try a simple test.

I ran an old cat5 UTP cable of around 15m in length as close as possible to a long mains extension, such that for around 7-8metres the 2 cables were tightly adjacent all the way along. I then connected one PC to a switch via this cable, and then ran a lan speed test from this PC to another target PC on the same switch, using LanBench on both PCs, a simple open source lan tester. I ran various tests both with the mains lead unplugged, plugged in, and actively powering a 2KW fan heater, all while the test was running. Whilst initially I did get some significant variation in performance, after experimenting I concluded that this was not due to the mains cable – some other factor was at play. In the end I ran with 2048 byte packets, and 4 simultaneous connections – it was upping the connection count to 4 from 1 which gave better and more consistent performance all round.

The results gave a send rate of approx 900-1000Mb/sec, and a receive rate of 250-300Kb/sec. Crucially, this level of performance was the same whether or not the mains was connected or in use during the test, and over a significant number of repeated tests.

This was not a definitive test, and it was over a much shorter distance than the SWA cable. The latter will likely be around 40m, but hopefully with minimal closeness to the mains cable compared to this test. The test did however rebut a significant number of posts online which said on no account must the cables be closer than a few inches and even if perpendicular you could get issues. Whilst the official rules might in theory mandate tighter restrictions to ensure all edge cases are covered, this simple test did give reassurance. In addition, the SWA cable would be CAT6 rather than CAT5, and the earthing of the SWA shield should go some way to help with screening interference at mains frequencies as well, in addition to the balanced line working of the twisted pairs which would eliminate common mode interference.

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This is fairly straightforward, but appears to be subject to the fundamental limitation that the Fritz Box cannot make use of multiple external IP addresses for the port forwarding, even if you are on an 8 port subnet like I am. I made absolutely sure that the Fritz Box was aware of the subnet by accessing its menus, then navigating to Home Network/Network on the left menus, and then clicking on the Network Settings tab. You then click on Additional settings to reveal some extra settings, and then scroll down and then click on IPv4 settings. Finally, if you scroll down and look under Public IPv4 Subnet you will see the public subnet visible/allocated to the Fritz Box, as a prefix and network mask.

In my case this was clearly an 8 port subnet, but unfortunately the fritz box only allowed port forwarding using the primary router public IP address.

I managed to work within this limitation however, as you can still forward multiple different ports to multiple different local devices. For example, to enable inbound RDP access to a PC as I did, do the following:-

1/ Visit Internet/Permit Access on the menus, and then click the Add device for sharing button.

2/ Select the target PC/device at the top, then at the bottom click New Sharing, which configures the desired sharing for the device.

3/ Then Click the Port Sharing radio button (as opposed to the default My FRITZ! sharing). Under application, I selected MS remote Desktop as the Fritz box was aware of RDP. You can select Other Application and enter the ports manually if you are working with an application that the Fritz box is unaware of.

4/ You then have 3 ports to configure, which is slightly confusing – I was not clear on all of this and the online help was blank on some of this detail. When I selected MS Remote Desktop, Port to Device and through… were both set to 3389, which was the correct internal port to use for RDP. Below this was Port requested externally, which is the actual external port you want to use. In one case therefore I left the defaults, but for a second PC, I set the external port to 3390, which allowed me to use the same external IP address for 2 different RDP configuration to access 2 different internal PCs successfully. I was not clear however what the distinction between Port to Device and through… was all about, but did not need to touch it.

5/ When accessing via the MS android RDP app, I was able to configure multiple PCs as required, and could also configure both Lan and internet configurations of the same PC so that I could access it both ways from my phone. A key trick here is that this app does allow a different RDP port to be used. Under PC name for the internet, I set the target IP address (the public IP address of the router), and appended a different port using e.g. :3390 notation to use port 3390 instead of 3389. You are able to give an additional friendly name for the PC when doing this, which is useful when configuring external IP access. Internally on the lan you can just use the standard windows network names. This then all worked fine and I was able to use my phone both to remotely access the fritz box to wake the PC, and then remote login using the MS RDP app to access it.

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As I found previously, there were a number of things to get right to make this work, as follows:-

1/ The bios settings for the motherboard need to be set correctly to enable it, and whether/how to do this varies depending on the motherboard. My older Gigabyte Z77-D3H at version F18 did not have a setting to enable this, but it turned out that it worked anyway once all the other issues were correctly address as below. My newer Asus Prime Z690M-Plus D4 did need a setting changed, and this was somewhat subtle. For this motherboard, from the home page you need to visit Advanced Mode/Advanced/APM Configuration/Power on by PCI-E, and enable this option. Note that you only find out from the prompt when you actually visit this option, which is labelled as PCI-E, that it also affects the onboard LAN as well as any PCI-E adapter. This was not clear.

2/ In Windows 10 and 11, open the control panel and visit Hardware and Sound/Power Options, and then select “Choose what power buttons do” on the left menu. Then click “Change settings that are currently unavailable” at the top, and this enables the “Turn on fast startup” option, which should be disabled. Whilst I am not certain that this is required, it was cited in this post re wake on lan, and turning it off did not slow boot time noticeably on my PCs, so I left it on.

3/ You then need to change the network adapter settings. Open the device manager and located your network adapter. Check the advanced settings and ensure that Wake on magic packet is enabled. Then, under the power management tab, allow this device to wake the computer, ensure that Only allow a magic packet to wake the computer is enabled. Again, I am not certain that the latter is absolutely required and I did get some intermittent behaviour when testing wake on lan, but in the end I have left this enabled, as I have no current requirement for any other way to wake the computer.

4/ On the Fritz Box 7530, wake on lan is built in. Navigate to Home Network/Network using the menus on the left, and then select the device that you want to wake. Note that it may be under active connections or idle connections in the list, and it is not clear what an idle connection means – a pc that is on/booted can appear in the idle connections list. Either way, this does not matter. You just click on the pencil icon as if to edit the settings for that device (even though you are not changing anything, this is where you will find wake on lan). Scroll to the bottom and you will see a button labelled Start Computer, which will successfully perform a wake on lan if all is in order. Note that to the left of this button is a check box labelled Start this computer automatically as soon as it is accessed from the internet. Whilst it might be convenient to enable this to save a manual wake on lan via the fritz box when accessing from the internet, I have elected not to do so at present as my needs for this are infrequent and it gives additional protection for the lan, as a remote fritz box access is needed to trigger this, which is of course password protected. However, doing it automatically would be a lot more convenient as accessing the fritz box remotely to do the wake on lan is perfectly possible and relatively straightforward, it does require several steps.

Once all this was done, I achieved consistent wake-on-lan behaviour using my Fritz Box 7530 to perform the wake on lan, as per this post here.

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I had some issues when upgrading to windows 10 – when sleeping/waking I sometimes got a blue screen error which forced an immediate reboot. I was running bios revision F18, so elected to upgrade to the latest non-beta version which was F22 at the time.

Reflashing was fine using qflash straight from the bios having placed the new bios image on a flash drive. It was also safe as the motherboard was dual bios so wouldn’t brick itself if I accidentally had a power fail whilst flashing.

However, Windows 10 would not boot after the reflash. The reflash reset all motherboard settings to default, so after some investigation I noticed that the Peripherals, SATA mode selection was set to IDE rather than AHCI, the latter being required by Windows 10 (and also used by my Windows 7 installation previously). Changing this allowed the system to safely reboot, only needing a slight repair fix by windows which took only a few seconds. All was then well. I had also tried to set the OS type to “Win 8” rather than the default of “Other”, but this was in fact a red herring – not sure what this setting does exactly (claims to allow certain Windows 8 features but does not elaborate), so in the end I just left the setting at “Other”.

This fixed the issue. 

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